filtros de aceite, lo cierto y lo que no.....

[LSpec]

Despues de un problema que tuve con un filtro de aceite, me puse a investigar y encontre muchas cosas interesantes, por ejemplo el creer que un filtro OEM es la mejor opcion, cuando en uno de los links demuestran que es como comprar un fram (los cuales puedo decir que nunca me han dando problemas )

Y lo mas importante, asegurense de tener la aplicacion correcta, no uno que le quede, tiene que se el numero equivalente.

aqui un link donde pueden ver sus numeros equivalentes, y aplicaciones

http://www.framcatalog.com/Application.aspx?b=F



primero como funcionan

How Oil Filters Work

Oil does a number of important things in an engine. It helps cool the engine by transferring heat; seals the gap between piston rings and cylinder walls; absorbs contaminants; and suspends soot particles that are the residue of combustion. Contaminants can be organic such as fungus and bacteria from the air. Inorganic particles can be a host of things, including dust that is sucked into the engine during running.



If left by itself for very long the oil would become saturated with the byproducts of combustion. It would carry minute, harsh particles that would wear the oil pump's machined components as well as the bearing surfaces in the engine. It always has done so, but in early engines the oil was changed so often (due to burning and poor oil quality) that no filtration was required. Later on some manufacturers put mesh screens in the oil path to grab bigger particles but this was not very effective.

The first oil filters were introduced in the early 1920s (Ernest Sweetland invented it and named if "Purolator," meaning "pure oil later.") Filters of many designs were offered as optional and aftermarket equipment for decades, but they didn't start showing up as standard equipment until the 1950s. These devices solved the contamination problem and allowed [relatively] extended periods of service for each oil change. By the mid 1960s, oil chemistry and filter technology was advanced enough to allow 4000+ mile change intervals. The original canister-type oil filter was quickly replaced by "spin-on" filters, except in a number of British sports cars that suffered from a lack of development funding. The spin-on filter is universally used today.

Today's engines run so cleanly that 10,000-mile oil change intervals are considered normal, but the job of the filter hasn't changed. It has to do its job well or the engine can suffer major damage. Here's how it works:

The outside of the filter is a metal can with a sealing gasket that allows it to be tightly held against the engine's mating surface. The base plate of the can holds the gasket and is perforated with holes around the area just inside the gasket. A central hole is threaded to mate with the oil filter assembly on the engine block. Inside the can is the filter material, most frequently made from synthetic fiber. The engine's oil pump moves the oil directly to the filter, where it enters from the holes in the perimeter of the base plate.


The dirty oil is passed (pushed under pressure) through the filter media and back through the central hole, where it re-enters the engine. Typically, filters have two media types: primary and secondary. The primary media can stop particles as small as 25-30 microns (human hair is 65-70 microns in size) and the secondary media can stop particles as small as 5-10 microns. "Full flow" filters only utilize primary media.

Secondary media limits flow, so the use and placement of it is highly restrictive in filters. Secondary media, when incorporated in a filter, operate in a partial-flow way. Inside the filter a small portion (1-10%) of the oil is directed through the secondary filter and the rest flows through the primary.

The longer a filter is on the car the more particles are suspended in the media, until a point is reached where oil can't flow through it. A bypass valve is incorporated in the engine's filter assembly to handle that situation, but once the oil bypasses the filter no cleaning action takes place.

Beware of Magnets

A few filter manufacturers are extolling the virtue of placing magnets in the filters to trap metal particles. They claim that magnetic forces stabilize the oil molecules; that the longer the magnetic field is in place the greater the benefit; that fuel mileage is increased; oil consumption and emissions are decreased; and engine power is increased. None of these claims are true and several are impossible.

Magnets do remove some sub-micron sized iron particles that are there as catalysts to aid combustion and also attract small ferrous metal particles that might be inside the engine oil galleries, but neither of these account for much effect in the real world. The bulk of the metallic particles floating around in an engine are from bearing materials and these aren't ferrous. Magnets won't "see" them.



You Get What You Pay For

The price range of filters is quite broad. They are sold at auto parts stores for as little as $2 and as much as $15, and prices at dealerships can be much higher. Can the design of filters be so different that such prices are justified? Won't a cheap filter work just as well as an expensive one? Aren't all filters warranted against failure?

The answer is yes to all these questions, but there are caveats. Generally speaking, the more money you spend the better the filter is. However, just like jewelry and clothing, some of your money is being spent for a name.

We don't recommend you buy "house brands" and other unknown brands of oil filters, even though they might look identical to the name brands. The manufacturer of such filters might have taken shortcuts in making the product. Light-gauge metal, loose (or shredding) filter material and poor quality gaskets can lead to premature failure, and getting one of these suppliers to cover engine damage would be an exercise in futility.

The most important feature of a filter, if you think about it, is the gasket. It has to seal the oil in the system for thousands of miles, in an atmosphere of heat and vibration. Gasket quality is very important, and low-priced filter manufacturers tend to use gaskets that get hard and brittle after just a few thousand miles. Leaks - and worse - can result.

So what should you do? Well, we believe that name-brand filters costing $6-$10 at auto parts stores will work very well for you. Feel free to spend more for "dual stage" filters, but remember that the secondary filter material inside doesn't filter all the oil all the time.

entre algunas cosas, les marque el hecho de usar magnetos en el tornillo de aceite, lean porque

Description

One weekend in early February of 1999, I set out to every auto parts store in my area and bought every brand of oil filter I could find. The reference filter that I chose is a common filter used on many Chrysler/Ford engines, which also fits various Jeep, Mazda, and Toyota applications. The reason is that this is a popular filter used in many applications, it is large so that it will unveil any fake miniature internal components, and it works with the Chrysler 2.2L and 2.5L engines. Design-wise it is fully compatible with the 2.2L/2.5L oil systems and is an excellent replacement for the tiny "teacup" filter that was originally designed for these engines. I was able to find over 30 different filters spanning several brand names. Several smaller studies were done on a few other filter types as well. Please don't ask for a study for your application, as I can't afford the time or money (mostly the time) to take requests. Sorry!

Applications

The descriptions and analyses are grouped by filter application for comparison. The Mopar article actually covers filters for different applications that are also compatible with the 2.2/2.5L engines. This allows selection of the largest filter possible when filter clearance is an issue.


Disassembly and Measurements

Basically, I cut open each filter on a lathe and took measurements of many of their attributes. Simply cutting them open revealed some very interesting (and disturbing) information.



The sections below detail each of the filters I tested. A summary of the measurements I took can be found in a table for each. I noticed that other filter part numbers for the same brand were designed a bit differently. This is probably because of the shape of the can and the requirements for that engine. Here is a description of each table entry:


The construction of the anti-drainback and bypass valves is an important feature. Many are made of nitrile rubber. As long as they have good sealing surfaces, they generally work fine. However, nitrile rubber diaphragms gets stiff in extreme cold and may fail to seal in those conditions. Silicone rubber seals or steel valves are not prone to this. Many bypass valves are spring-loaded steel and work well. Some are spring-loaded plastic and are often not molded well enough to make a decent seal, allowing oil to leak passed them.

Probably the most important value here is the element surface area. This helps determine the amount of filter media that is available to trap particles. Cellulose media (basically paper) can trap fewer particles and can flow less oil per square inch because there are fewer passages through it. Synthetic media has more passages and can trap more particles and flow more oil than cellulose per square inch. For the same type of media, the smaller the area, the sooner the filter will become plugged and will end up bypassing much of the oil instead of filtering it. Some filters use a cellulose/synthetic blend, so a direct comparison is not possible. More pleats in the element does not necessarily mean more surface area (as you will soon see). In fact, too many pleats can end up restricting the flow too much because there is not enough space between them to allow oil to flow. Most of the cheaper filters use a mix that is mostly cellulose and/or cotton. Some of the better filters use synthetics or synthetic blends. There is no way of usefully-identifying the media types by visual inspection.



The shell and backplate thickness are only relevant if your engine's oil system operates at unusually high pressures. Occasionally a seemingly strong filter can still leak due to a failure at the crimp between the can and backplate. If this happens to you, I would send it back to the manufacturer so that they can solve the problem. Even the cheapest filters have to be strong enough for stock oiling systems, or they will fail SAE tests.

I have removed SAE filtration efficiency and all other data that came from the manufacturers, since these are often biased towards that particular manufacturer.

Other measurements and values are debatable and I will allow you to draw your own conclusions from them.


SAE Tests

All filters have to undergo SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to verify that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. There are two tests available for automobile engine oil filters. All filters must be tested with the J806 test, but the new J1858 is much more meaningful. Currently the J1858 test is optional. Usually, the high-end filter manufacturers will display these numbers to show off their great filters.

The SAE J806 test uses a single-pass test, checking for contaminant holding capacity, size of contaminant particles trapped, and ability to maintain clean oil. As an amendment of the J806 test, the multi-pass test also looks for filter life in hours, contaminant capacity in grams, and efficiency based on weight. The efficiency of the filter is determined only by weight through gravimetric measurement of the filtered test liquid. Typical numbers for paper filter elements are 85% (single pass) and 80% (multi-pass).

The SAE J1858 test provides both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter), for evaluation. From this data filtration ratio and efficiency for each contaminant particle size can be determined as well as dust capacity and pressure loss as a function of time. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns.

NOTICE: Since all of the SAE data I have is from the manufacturers, it cannot be trusted to be unbiased. Therefore all SAE data has been removed.


Warning!

These pages are NOT to be taken as gospel. The primary motivation behind this study was to provide information about what oil filter brands are made by which manufacturers. The secondary motivation was to uncover some of the obvious internal construction issues of these manufacturers. This "study" is not a "test". The SAE J806 and J1858 tests were designed to test the filtration capability of these filters, but unfortunately they have several short comings. These include issues such as anti-drain-back valve functionality (valve train noise, etc.), filter element containment capability (how long before it blocks and bypasses--related to surface area), and many testimonials that appear to point in the direction of certain manufacturers. It has been my hope to shed some light in the direction of these issues. While my perhaps unpopular "two eyes and common sense" approach may not be the most scientific, it is the best I could do considering there was little personal return on the investment of time and money I put into it.

The primary shortcoming of this study is the small sampling size. Some brand names use different manufacturers for different applications. Another shortcoming is the lack of testing of the filter element media itself. Unfortunately I have neither the time nor resources to do this.

I invite anyone with the means to take a larger sampling size and conduct a more complete study, which may include private SAE tests. I also invite anyone to repeat a study similar to this one on other model filters. It's really not that difficult. Just cut them open, take measurements and pictures, and be methodical.

With all of that said, please make your own judgments. Use this study only as a source of some information that may give you a better idea about which filter brands to steer clear from. It should be obvious that some manufacturers are not being honest about their product. The next time you buy a filter for your car, buy two and cut one open to see what is inside. My intent was to provide some information and alert you to some little-known issues, not to tell you what to think.

esto es todo lo referente a que es un filtro....


y por ultimo, vean que los filtros OEM son como los fram, al menos en nissan...

Click on each filter for a close-up view
Here are all five with the filters dissected
Click on a filter to see a larger view.


Oil enters the filter through the small holes on the outer edge of the base flange. It then goes through the filter and exits to the engine through the center hole.
All the filters have an anti drain-back valve. It is a rubber membrane which covers the perimeter holes in the base flange and is pushed aside by the oil as the oil enters the filter case. With the engine off, the membrane is covering the holes, and prevents oil from draining back into the engine.
The pressure relief valve causes the oil to bypass the filter element if the filter becomes plugged or the oil is so thick (cold) that there is significant back-pressure from the filter.
The Nissan (early) filter has no pressure relief valve (all the others do). If there is significant back=pressure from the filter, there will be a serious loss of oil flow.
The base gasket on the Mobil 1 filter is similar to the Nissan filters, rounded. The others are flat.
The Mobil 1 filter is smaller than the others, but its filter material is thicker.
The Fram filter has cardboard ends. All the others have metal ends.
The pressure relief valve of the Fram filter is in the hold-down. The hold-down seal is to the cardboard filter top. If it leaks, oil will bypass the filter element.

para ver imagenes aqui estan los links

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/297.cfm

http://websorcerer.com/GeekOut/index.html

[Wuicho_81286]

interesante ...buen aporte

[sergiospeed]

Fijate que sii un OEM es lo mejor ...

te lo digo porque hace unos años estube en un taller de excel automotriz y ahi tenian en una como maqueta 2 filtros partidos a la mitad, un mitsu OEM y otro patito alskdjf y las membranas en el OEM eran mas rectas, bien hechas y se veia que estaba mejor que la patito que las membranas o filtritos internos estaban todos verguiados y torcidos y tenia menos

yo a mi carro le pongo wix que es lo mejorcito que no es OEM ya que la vez pasada en panamotor 120 por un filtro

[AWD]

buena info vos..

[snowy]

yo pague 160 x un filtro OEM de nissan y cuando lo veo decia made in china.

[Ivan327]

Muy valiosa la información, gracias.

[Silverman]

Yo he utilizado solo filtros K&N para aceite y la verdad 0 clavos, solo ay que validar que se le ponga el que es compatible con el vehiculo.

saludos.

[LSpec]

Pues supongo que no para todas las marcas es cierto que es igual que un fram

pero algo que se me olvido escribir es que las siguientes marcas son fabricadas por FRAM

PENNZOIL
K&N
y en la noche pongo los demas porque no me acuerdo ñlaksdfañsdj

no tengo nada en contra de K&N , pero para gastar tanto y que sea como un fram, mejor el fram, total yo nunca he tenido problemas con fram....

[stugt]

y los Bosch? es lo que he usado siempre. que opinan de esa marca?

[vimace]

JAMAS, PERO JAAAMAAAASSSSS un filtro FRAM va a ser igual a un OEM....NUNCA !!!!


si queres usar filtros "aftermarket" UTILIZA WIX ó PUROLATOR...




PD... LOS FILTROS "AFTERMARKET" (o cualquier otro) regularmente se miden por su capacidad de atrapar particulas en "MICRONES" y tambien "POR SU SUPERFICIE DE FILTRADO" (Aka. pulgadas cuadradas de area para filtrar)

me da hueva explicar pero utiliza, repito, WIX ó PUROLATOR GOLD...


suerte

[vimace]

pd...

FRAM FABRICA FILTROS PARA OTRAS COMPAÑIAS ?????


por lo visto no leiste bien, ademas eso de fram ya es de dominio publico... FRAM NUNCA HA PRODUCIDO SUS PROPIOS FILTROS... (solo, y taaaalvez el que se salva es el HECHO EN USA a partir del 2008)

Fram =

While Fram has been around since 1934, Honeywell (formerly Allied-Signal, formerly Bendix) has been manufacturing Fram filters since they bought-out the company in 1967. While I don't know when they started making them like this, I suspect it has been for many decades.

[vimace]

Esta carta es de un INGENIERO DE PRODUCCION DE LA "PLANTA DE FRAM"

Russell,
I obtained great satisfaction from reading your oil filter survey.

I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.

I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.

I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bullshit.

If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.

Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime.

[TheEgo]

fram

[gti99]

yo me recuerdo que en el 98 compre un toyota starlet en la agencia y como siempre te dicen que los dos primeros servicios son gratis lo lleve alli, pero al tercer servicio ya lo lleve a otro lado, pero mi sorpresa fue que el filtro de aceite era marca fram, entonces pense si en la agencia te ponen un filtro fram menos lo sigo llevando alli .

[GeorgeS40]

Iniciado por gti99

yo me recuerdo que en el 98 compre un toyota starlet en la agencia y como siempre te dicen que los dos primeros servicios son gratis lo lleve alli, pero al tercer servicio ya lo lleve a otro lado, pero mi sorpresa fue que el filtro de aceite era marca fram, entonces pense si en la agencia te ponen un filtro fram menos lo sigo llevando alli .

agencias chafa como la cofino si

en divisa usan filtros y aceites honda

[LSpec]

busquen bien y van a encontrar que las plantas canadienses fabrican fram y otros, y en el link de comparacion veran un filtro OEM nissan con interior fram añlsdkfad o de la misma calidad....

lo que yo no entiendo es porque muchos estan en contra de los filtros fram, para uso diario, llevan añaaaales en el mercado y si tan malos fueran dejarian de venderse

y bueno, eso es como a mi no me hacen tener un chevrolet o un volkswagen, porque considero que no son buenos carros, pero otros los prefieren..

y yo no confiaria mucho en alguien que ya no trabaja para la empresa ñalksdfadf talvez lo hecharon ñaldfa

[vimace]

Lleva añaaaaales,, DE PRODUCIR FILTROS "PARA EL CONSUMIDOR" no para el que busca calidad.... ASI DE SENCILLO....


y es lo mas barato que encontras de lo "CONOCIDO", talvez por eso

[desconocido]

interesante!

[Scion07]

Mi humilde opinion es que el fram tiene una nota a un lado que dice que no se debe usar en los USA desde que lei e sa nota no me dio confianza, en lo personal para aceite Semisintetico uso Purolator normal uno blanco y para sintetico uno Dorado que es corrugado ( no tengo nada encontra de los Fram )
pero tienen menos material para filtrar el aceite

Chequeen este link

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

Saludos

[Beercoholic]

A mi en lo personal me pasó con mi Honda Integra (es Honda por que es de agencia), mi cuate que era el que lo tenía antes que yo, una vez dejó de hacerle servicio en la agencia y donde le hizo el servicio le instalaron un FRAM, el que marcaba el catalogo PH3593A (de hecho es el mismo que marca la página), va la idea es que al tiempo de usar el carro, en una de esas que le tiró todo el aceite a la mierd... el sintio el humo en la cabina y vio la luz del aceite prendida, apagó el carro se lo llevó a la casa en grúa, y al revisarlo el mecánico se dió cuenta que por el empaque del filtro se había salido todo el aceite.

Pensaron que había sido una mala instalación o un mal número de filtro, y volvieron a corroborar y al final pusieron el mismo número de filtro, porque era el que marcaba el manual, se aseguraron de instalarlo bien, y orale, todo "nítido".

Al poco tiempo yo le compré el carro, lo usé por un tiempo, y al rato me volvió a pasar exáctamente lo mismo, cuando revisé el aceite se había salido por el empaque del filtro de aceite, fuí a la agencia compré un OEM, que me costó como Q65, los comparé y noté que el empaque del fram era un poco más salido y el radio era mayor que el OEM, instalé el OEM, y NUNCA he vuelto a tener ese mismo problema, ya van como 4 veces después de eso que le he hecho su servicio (algunos pasaditos del tiempo), y 0 clavos.

Así que OEM FTW!!!!!

[LSpec]

Iniciado por Beercoholic

A mi en lo personal me pasó con mi Honda Integra (es Honda por que es de agencia), mi cuate que era el que lo tenía antes que yo, una vez dejó de hacerle servicio en la agencia y donde le hizo el servicio le instalaron un FRAM, el que marcaba el catalogo PH3593A (de hecho es el mismo que marca la página), va la idea es que al tiempo de usar el carro, en una de esas que le tiró todo el aceite a la mierd... el sintio el humo en la cabina y vio la luz del aceite prendida, apagó el carro se lo llevó a la casa en grúa, y al revisarlo el mecánico se dió cuenta que por el empaque del filtro se había salido todo el aceite.

Pensaron que había sido una mala instalación o un mal número de filtro, y volvieron a corroborar y al final pusieron el mismo número de filtro, porque era el que marcaba el manual, se aseguraron de instalarlo bien, y orale, todo "nítido".

Al poco tiempo yo le compré el carro, lo usé por un tiempo, y al rato me volvió a pasar exáctamente lo mismo, cuando revisé el aceite se había salido por el empaque del filtro de aceite, fuí a la agencia compré un OEM, que me costó como Q65, los comparé y noté que el empaque del fram era un poco más salido y el radio era mayor que el OEM, instalé el OEM, y NUNCA he vuelto a tener ese mismo problema, ya van como 4 veces después de eso que le he hecho su servicio (algunos pasaditos del tiempo), y 0 clavos.

Así que OEM FTW!!!!!

uno oem como aplicacion pues si es la justa, pero si buscas en otros lados los equivalentes quedan bien.
Lo mismo que te paso me paso a mi, sin tirar aceite al menos, y encontre en otro lado que la aplicacion es diferente, no por catalogo sino como equivalente del original....

pero que bueno que sigan aportando info, la verdad es que no todo lo que se ve en la web es cierto, todo tiene un criterio y solo aprueba y error uno aprende

Y por cierto, calidad es un termino subjetivo, que depende de lo que cada persona crea que es calidad.......

[pacman178]

Yo soy de la opinion que si buscas calidad, no precisamente tenes que pagar mucho. Yo desde que tengo mi carro, siempre he comprado mi filtro OEM mazda en didea,es hecho en japon, y un aproximado de 30 quetzales mas caro que el equivalente FRAM,pero vale la pena y cero clavos. Para que buscar mas que el filtro recomendado por el fabricante.

[meteoro]

en cuestion de filtros de aceite lo veo relativo..

si cuidas demasiado tu carro, en 1r. lugar cambias el aceite rapido (2,000 kms) y buena marca (castrol, motul, mobil1 que se yo..)

tu filtro a la larga x ser uno de los "mejores" aca en guate se degrada a uno de los regularitos..

[stevemorenito]

Iniciado por Beercoholic

A mi en lo personal me pasó con mi Honda Integra (es Honda por que es de agencia), mi cuate que era el que lo tenía antes que yo, una vez dejó de hacerle servicio en la agencia y donde le hizo el servicio le instalaron un FRAM, el que marcaba el catalogo PH3593A (de hecho es el mismo que marca la página), va la idea es que al tiempo de usar el carro, en una de esas que le tiró todo el aceite a la mierd... el sintio el humo en la cabina y vio la luz del aceite prendida, apagó el carro se lo llevó a la casa en grúa, y al revisarlo el mecánico se dió cuenta que por el empaque del filtro se había salido todo el aceite.

Pensaron que había sido una mala instalación o un mal número de filtro, y volvieron a corroborar y al final pusieron el mismo número de filtro, porque era el que marcaba el manual, se aseguraron de instalarlo bien, y orale, todo "nítido".

Al poco tiempo yo le compré el carro, lo usé por un tiempo, y al rato me volvió a pasar exáctamente lo mismo, cuando revisé el aceite se había salido por el empaque del filtro de aceite, fuí a la agencia compré un OEM, que me costó como Q65, los comparé y noté que el empaque del fram era un poco más salido y el radio era mayor que el OEM, instalé el OEM, y NUNCA he vuelto a tener ese mismo problema, ya van como 4 veces después de eso que le he hecho su servicio (algunos pasaditos del tiempo), y 0 clavos.

Así que OEM FTW!!!!!

juela gran putaaaaaaaaa....a un cuate le paso asiiii... pero era un filtro wix!!!!!!!!! que cagadaa... y le tuvo que cambiar de filtro....o sea un fram!! buenisimos los cerotes ....ademas acuerdense de que siempre hay parecidos...(como por ejemplo los discos para pulidora), a lo mejor los que han comprado los FRAM son chafines... aguevos que los FRAM son buenisimos.. nunca me han dado problema..

[spoon-sports]

Tengan cuidado xq existen unos filtros chafas chinos que parecen FRAM a mi me paso una vez q fui a cambiar el aceite a un lugar pisado alli en la aguilar batres casi enfrente de macdonalds q dicen q en 10 minutos te cambian el aceite y tiene el pisado unos rotulos de mobil1. Pues alli cuando me pusieron el filtro me pusieron uno chafa de esos chinos y a los 5 minutos de andar caminando el carro me empezo a botar el aceite, le fui a reclamar a los serotes y me pusieron otro filtro alli fue cuando me di cuenta q el filtro era anaranjadote todo mal hecho y parecia FRAM pero era chafa, me fui y mejor pase a mi aceitera de confianza a ponerle un FRAM original y cero clavos.