h4ck7er
20-May-2009, 16:41
Bueno jovenes como ya son varios e46 espero que les sirva esta info! q a mi tambien me ha servido! tengo q comprar el aceito este mes para el carrin y asi le hago el cambio de una vez. :run:
DIY guides for pretty much everything on the car
Resetting the service interval (the free way):
-Ignition key must be off
-Press and hold the trip odometer reset button in the instrument cluster (left button), and turn the ignition key to the first position.
-Keep the button pressed for approx. 5 seconds until one of the following words appear in the display: "Oil Service" or "Inspection", with "Reset".
-The service due is shown with "reset" if the coded minimum consumption limit has been reached and resetting is possible. If "reset" is not shown, the minimum limit has not been reached and resetting is not possible.
-Press and hold the reset button again until the word "Reset" begins to flash.
-While the display is flashing, press the left button briefly to reset the service interval. After the display has shown the new interval the following will appear: "End SIA".
-The system can only be reset again after 2.5 gal (10 liters) of fuel have been consumed.
Oil Changes:
-twice as often as the OBC (on board computer, the count down that appears on the odometer when you turn the car on) calls for. AKA, replace the oil when the service interval says 7500 or 0. Do not skip changing the filter. In fact, it is much more important that you change the filter than the oil (not that I'm promoting that either, but if you feel the need to skimp... just change the filter.) Use Castrol 10W-60 ONLY!
-Oil change DIY here
Inspection 1
-oil change (see above)
-Oil change DIY here
-diff fluid:
OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583
diff fluid swap diy here
-tranny fluid:
OEM Fluid (6mt & SMG) Castrol MTF-LT-2 (NOT LT-3) fluid
BMW part# 83 22 0 309 031
-Clean MAF (Use CRC MAF cleaner, found at pepboys)
-Engine air filter
-cabin air filter
-valve adjustment
valve adjustment DIY here
Inspection 2
-oil change (see above)
-Oil change DIY here
-diff fluid:
OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583
diff fluid sway diy here
-tranny fluid:
OEM Fluid (6mt & SMG) Castrol MTF-LT-2 (NOT LT-3) fluid
BMW part# 83 22 0 309 031
-Clean MAF (Use CRC MAF cleaner, found at pepboys)
-Engine air filter
-cabin air filter
-valve adjustment
valve adjustment DIY here
-coolant flush (50/50 distilled water and BMW coolant)
DIY here, another DIY here, user M3 specific tips here
BMW Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 gallon jug
OEM Part #: 82 14 1 467 704
-Power steering fluid flush
-fuel filter
-spark plugs
spark plug DIY here
-RSMs and RTABs (if you have the stockers)
video diy here
Yearly (every spring works well for me):
-brake fluid flush
DIY here
-general inspection-- eg cracks in suspension mounts, subframe, check belts for cracks, bent control arms, brake pads and rotor thickness (obviously continue to monitor more regularly if low), etc
-wiper blades
75,000 miles
Begin to think about replacing your radiator. The plastic parts of BMW radiators do NOT age will and when they fail (which they will) you must stop the car immediately or you will destroy the engine. Side note here, if the temp gauge is ever in the red, STOP THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. You may be able to time the radiator swap to go along with a coolant flush, which will save you a little money. I know my car should be due for inspection 2 around that point. There are several all metal radiators out there that mean you'll only have to do this swap once. I'll be putting a Zionville radiator in my car, which you can get from several places on the web (or from me ).
100,000 Miles
-fuel injectors cleaned (you can get all 6 cleaned to new spec here for the price of buying one new injector)
-I would do a belt swap at this point, even if they aren't visibly cracking
-Belt-idlers
-FCABs
-tranny mounts
tranny mount DIY here
-guibo
-possibly engine mounts
Clutch
The clutch is entirely driver (and mod) dependent. ArtM3 replaced his at 100,000k plus and it was only 1/3 used up, so don't assume it's going and replace preventatively-- wait till you feel it start to slip.
Shocks
Shocks can last anywhere from 30,000 to 80,000 miles, depending on how the roads are where you live. Pothole and the like determine shock life, track use is not particularly hard on them. Lowering springs will also drastically lower their life (the lower the springs the faster they age).
video DIY here
Battery
replace every 5 years
link original con todos los DIY de lo especificado arriba
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=190111
DIY guides for pretty much everything on the car
Resetting the service interval (the free way):
-Ignition key must be off
-Press and hold the trip odometer reset button in the instrument cluster (left button), and turn the ignition key to the first position.
-Keep the button pressed for approx. 5 seconds until one of the following words appear in the display: "Oil Service" or "Inspection", with "Reset".
-The service due is shown with "reset" if the coded minimum consumption limit has been reached and resetting is possible. If "reset" is not shown, the minimum limit has not been reached and resetting is not possible.
-Press and hold the reset button again until the word "Reset" begins to flash.
-While the display is flashing, press the left button briefly to reset the service interval. After the display has shown the new interval the following will appear: "End SIA".
-The system can only be reset again after 2.5 gal (10 liters) of fuel have been consumed.
Oil Changes:
-twice as often as the OBC (on board computer, the count down that appears on the odometer when you turn the car on) calls for. AKA, replace the oil when the service interval says 7500 or 0. Do not skip changing the filter. In fact, it is much more important that you change the filter than the oil (not that I'm promoting that either, but if you feel the need to skimp... just change the filter.) Use Castrol 10W-60 ONLY!
-Oil change DIY here
Inspection 1
-oil change (see above)
-Oil change DIY here
-diff fluid:
OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583
diff fluid swap diy here
-tranny fluid:
OEM Fluid (6mt & SMG) Castrol MTF-LT-2 (NOT LT-3) fluid
BMW part# 83 22 0 309 031
-Clean MAF (Use CRC MAF cleaner, found at pepboys)
-Engine air filter
-cabin air filter
-valve adjustment
valve adjustment DIY here
Inspection 2
-oil change (see above)
-Oil change DIY here
-diff fluid:
OEM fluid Castrol SAF-XJ + FM booster
BMW part# PN 83-22-2-282-583
diff fluid sway diy here
-tranny fluid:
OEM Fluid (6mt & SMG) Castrol MTF-LT-2 (NOT LT-3) fluid
BMW part# 83 22 0 309 031
-Clean MAF (Use CRC MAF cleaner, found at pepboys)
-Engine air filter
-cabin air filter
-valve adjustment
valve adjustment DIY here
-coolant flush (50/50 distilled water and BMW coolant)
DIY here, another DIY here, user M3 specific tips here
BMW Antifreeze/Coolant - 1 gallon jug
OEM Part #: 82 14 1 467 704
-Power steering fluid flush
-fuel filter
-spark plugs
spark plug DIY here
-RSMs and RTABs (if you have the stockers)
video diy here
Yearly (every spring works well for me):
-brake fluid flush
DIY here
-general inspection-- eg cracks in suspension mounts, subframe, check belts for cracks, bent control arms, brake pads and rotor thickness (obviously continue to monitor more regularly if low), etc
-wiper blades
75,000 miles
Begin to think about replacing your radiator. The plastic parts of BMW radiators do NOT age will and when they fail (which they will) you must stop the car immediately or you will destroy the engine. Side note here, if the temp gauge is ever in the red, STOP THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. You may be able to time the radiator swap to go along with a coolant flush, which will save you a little money. I know my car should be due for inspection 2 around that point. There are several all metal radiators out there that mean you'll only have to do this swap once. I'll be putting a Zionville radiator in my car, which you can get from several places on the web (or from me ).
100,000 Miles
-fuel injectors cleaned (you can get all 6 cleaned to new spec here for the price of buying one new injector)
-I would do a belt swap at this point, even if they aren't visibly cracking
-Belt-idlers
-FCABs
-tranny mounts
tranny mount DIY here
-guibo
-possibly engine mounts
Clutch
The clutch is entirely driver (and mod) dependent. ArtM3 replaced his at 100,000k plus and it was only 1/3 used up, so don't assume it's going and replace preventatively-- wait till you feel it start to slip.
Shocks
Shocks can last anywhere from 30,000 to 80,000 miles, depending on how the roads are where you live. Pothole and the like determine shock life, track use is not particularly hard on them. Lowering springs will also drastically lower their life (the lower the springs the faster they age).
video DIY here
Battery
replace every 5 years
link original con todos los DIY de lo especificado arriba
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=190111